Late medieval swords
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The late Middle Ages – roughly the 13th to 15th centuries – produced some of the most versatile swords ever forged: from the agile one-handed sword to the legendary one-and-a-half-handed sword and the mighty two-handed sword. Here you will find replicas of these blades for exhibition fighting, re-enactment and collecting – with models such as the Tewkesbury, the Shrewsbury or the Nuremberg fencing sword, which are modelled on historically documented originals.
What is an anderthalbhänder – and why is it called a bastard sword?
The one-and-a-half-hand sword – also known as a bastard sword – is a sword type from the 14th and 15th centuries characterised by its distinctive grip length: it allows for both one-handed and two-handed use, depending on the combat situation. The blade length is typically between 80 and 100 cm, the overall length between 110 and 120 cm, and the weight ranges from 1.2 to 1.8 kg.
The name ‘bastard sword’ derives from the fact that this weapon does not belong to any distinct type – it stands ‘between’ the classic one-handed sword and the two-handed sword, like an ‘illegitimate child’ of two sword types. Another explanation points out that the fighter could no longer carry a shield when wielding the sword with both hands – and thus dispensed with the family coat of arms. Both derivations revolve around the same core: the bastard sword defies clear categorisation.
In Oakeshott’s typology, one-and-a-half-handers are primarily classified under types XIV to XVIII. These swords were no exception, but were in fact widely used weapons of war in the late Middle Ages – as evidenced by archaeological finds, pictorial sources and contemporary fencing manuals such as the works of Hans Talhoffer. So anyone looking for a late medieval sword will find the one-and-a-half-hander to be one of the most characteristic examples of this era.
An overview of late medieval sword types
One-handed sword
The classic knight’s companion: light, manoeuvrable, ideal in combination with a shield or on horseback. Typical cross-shaped hilt with a crossguard, well-balanced for swift strikes in close combat. Oakeshott types XIV and XV are typical examples.
Eight-and-a-half-handers / Bastard swords
The most versatile sword of the late Middle Ages. Versatile for use with one or both hands, popular with foot soldiers. Historical examples from the battles of Tewkesbury (1471) and Shrewsbury (1403) have shaped the form of this blade.
Two-handed sword / Flamberge
A weapon wielded with both hands to break through enemy formations and pike lines. The flamberge – a variant with a wavy blade – is a particularly striking example of this category. Designed not for fast one-on-one combat, but for specific tactical situations.
Falchion & Long Knife
The falchion is single-edged, short and heavy – a robust cutting weapon for fighters without elaborate armour. The long knife of the 15th/16th century is a transitional weapon between knife and sword and features in many fencing manuals. Both types are available in the range as display combat and decorative variants.
Understanding exhibition combat classes: SK-A, SK-B and SK-C
SK-C is the entry-level class for light physical contact. Blades made of carbon steel, fully forged, bluntly ground. Ideal for first show fighting experiences or events with clear contact restrictions. Examples in the range: One-and-a-half-handers SK-C and one-and-a-half-hand swords SK-C, each from approx. €84.
SK-B is the standard class for most re-enactment events in the medieval scene. Harder contact permitted, more robust construction, often including a leather scabbard. Typical models: Shrewsbury SK-B, Falchion SK-B by Ulfberth, Oakeshott XIV one-handed sword with steel or copper pommel. Be sure to check event rules before purchasing – some organisers require specific certifications.
SK-A meets the highest standards for intensive display combat and historical fencing. Handcrafted finish, professional manufacture. The Nürnberg fencing sword as an SK-A one-and-a-half-hander is the top model in this class within the range – handcrafted and designed for demanding display combatants. The Satzvey SK-A is also a representative of this performance class.
Decorative sword or combat sword: which is right for you?
- For wall decoration, costume props and photo shoots
- Often made from spring steel or carbon steel, usually not designed for physical contact
- Sharp variants for collectors and cutting tests – not for combat use
- Carrying sharp blades is subject to gun laws in Germany – check the legal situation beforehand
- Typical price range: €42–€151
- Example: Late medieval knight’s sword (decorative) from €42, Shrewsbury (decorative) incl. leather scabbard €151
- Standardised according to exhibition combat classes, designed for actual combat use
- Fully forged, blunt-ground, rounded points
- Robust enough for repeated blade contact
- Many models already include a leather scabbard – saves a separate order
- Typical price range: €84–€310
- The organiser’s event rules determine the required SK class
Blade steel in the late Middle Ages: carbon steel, spring steel and Damascus steel
| Material | Suitability | Properties |
|---|---|---|
| Carbon steel (1060/1065) | Historically accurate | Hard, sharpenable blade; prone to rust – regular oiling required; typical of decorative swords and sharp replicas |
| Spring steel | Stage combat | Elastic, does not break under bending stress; preferred material for SK-B and SK-A; absorbs blows without breaking |
| Carbon steel | SK-C | Robust, inexpensive, good for beginner’s swords; fully forged, bluntly ground, suitable for light stage combat |
| Damascus steel | Collector | Multi-layered forging, visible grain; visually striking, more expensive to produce; sought-after collector’s item |
| Handle material: oak, leather, wire | All types | Affects balance and grip; wire wrapping improves grip; pommel made of steel or copper (e.g. Oakeshott XIV) alters the centre of gravity and handling |
Care and storage of your late medieval sword
Place the sword on a soft, clean surface to avoid scratches. Put on cotton gloves – the acid on your fingertips significantly corrodes carbon steel and promotes rust. Clean the blade first with a dry cotton cloth, then with denatured alcohol for stubborn dirt. Wipe dry afterwards.
After each cleaning, apply a thin, even layer of gun oil to the blade. This is particularly important for carbon steel, which tarnishes quickly without protection. Less is more – a thin film is sufficient and leaves no residue on clothing or the scabbard.
Do not store your sword permanently in the leather scabbard. Leather contains tannic acid and retains moisture – both of which promote oxidation, particularly in carbon steel. For storage at home, horizontal mounts or wall hooks in a dry place are suitable. Cellars with high humidity are unsuitable. The leather scabbard is intended for transport and use at events, not for long-term storage.
After an intense exhibition fight, the blade should be checked for scratches, chips and burrs. Small burrs on the cutting edge can be smoothed out with a fine whetstone – this is not only maintenance but also ensures safety for your next sparring partner. Then clean and oil as described.
Experience from the scene: What really matters when buying
Before you buy a late medieval sword, you should specify exactly what you intend to use it for: Which exhibition combat class is permitted at your event? Which role – foot soldier, knight, fencer? This determines not only the exhibition combat class, but also whether a one-handed sword, a one-and-a-half-handed sword or a two-handed sword suits your role.
Weight and balance cannot be determined from photos. A one-and-a-half-hand sword with a copper pommel feels different in the hand than the same model with a steel pommel – the centre of gravity shifts noticeably. If you have the opportunity to hold a sword in your hand before buying, you should take it.
Many models in the range come with a leather scabbard included – this saves not only effort but also the cost of ordering one separately. The Battle Merchant (wide selection from SK-A to decorative) and Lord of Battles brands cover the range of 39 items. In addition, you’ll find everything that goes with a sword in the armoury: helmets, plate armour and chainmail. Anyone wishing to create a complete 15th-century re-enactment will also find late medieval helmets and late medieval knives there to complement their armament.
Whether you’re looking for a lightweight entry-level one-and-a-half-handed sword for your first stage combat performance or a historically accurate replica of a sword from the Battle of Tewkesbury – our range includes stage combat swords, decorative replicas and collectibles from the late Middle Ages, priced from €42 to over €300. Browse the category now or call us directly if you have any specific questions.
Frequently asked questions
An anderthalbhänder is a sword from the 14th and 15th centuries, the length of whose hilt allows for both one-handed and two-handed use. The blade length is typically between 80 and 100 cm, the overall length between 110 and 120 cm, and the weight between 1.2 and 1.8 kg. It is usually classified as types XIV to XVIII in the Oakeshott typology and was indeed a widely used weapon of war in the late Middle Ages.
There are two common explanations for the name ‘bastard sword’: on the one hand, the sword stands ‘between’ the one-handed and two-handed sword and does not belong to any clear type – like an ‘illegitimate child’ of two sword forms. Secondly, when wielding it with both hands, the fighter could no longer carry a shield and thus had to forgo his family coat of arms, which was considered unbecoming of his station. Both explanations point to the ambiguity of this weapon.
Yes, bastard swords or ‘one-and-a-half-handers’ are well documented historically. They appear in contemporary fencing manuals such as those by Hans Talhoffer, in pictorial sources from the 14th and 15th centuries, and in archaeological finds. The battles of Tewkesbury (1471) and Shrewsbury (1403) are considered typical contexts for this type of sword.
That depends on your event. SK-C is the entry-level class for light physical contact, SK-B is the standard for most re-enactment events, and SK-A is the most intense class for professional exhibition fighting and historical fencing. Check your organiser’s rules in advance – not all classes are accepted everywhere. If in doubt, it is better to call the organiser than to make assumptions based on the product name.
Carbon steel rusts quickly without maintenance. Clean the blade after use with a dry cotton cloth, wearing cotton gloves. Then apply a thin layer of weapon oil. Important: Do not store the sword permanently in its leather scabbard – tannic acid and trapped moisture promote oxidation. It is better to store it horizontally in a dry place.