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Medieval clasps



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Garment clasps are far more than just functional fastenings – in the Middle Ages, the Viking Age and Celtic culture, they served as status symbols, jewellery and identifying marks all at once. Whether you want to complete an authentic re-enactment outfit, securely fasten your cloak during LARP, or add that final, perfect detail to your costume: the right garment clasp makes all the difference.

What is a garment fastener? – Function and historical significance

Was ist eine Gewandschließe? – Funktion und historische Bedeutung

The term ‘garment clasp’ is a generic term for all types of fastenings on historical garments: brooches and ring brooches, hooks and eyes, buckle fastenings, brooches and cloak clasps all fall under this category. What distinguishes them from one another is primarily their area of use and their mechanism – ranging from purely functional fastenings to opulent pieces of jewellery.

A garment fibula is a piece of jewellery with a pin mechanism: a pin is inserted through the fabric and secured to a bar or disc. This principle is one of the oldest fastening systems in existence – it dates back to the Bronze Age and is found in almost all European cultures of the Middle Ages. Unlike a simple hook-and-eye fastening, a brooch always serves a decorative purpose: size, shape and material signalled rank, origin and affiliation.

For the Celts and Germanic peoples, the garment fastener was also a marker of identity: certain brooches were reserved for religious communities, warrior groups or noble families. Anyone wearing an elaborately engraved silver bow brooch made their status clear without saying a word.

Types at a glance: brooches, hook-and-eye fastenings, buckle fastenings

Viking brooches

8th–11th century

Clover-leaf brooches (e.g. based on the Värnamo find), U-shaped brooches with animal ornamentation in the Urnes or Borre style, garment fasteners featuring depictions of Jörmungand or Hugin & Munin. Two-part cloak fasteners such as the Gulbi fastener from the Rus cultural area securely fasten cloaks and caftans.

Frankish & Merovingian brooches

5th–8th century

Bar-shaped brooches with characteristic animal heads and geometric patterns, modelled on originals from the Frankish settlement area. Typically: bronze or silver-plated, symmetrical design, worn on the shoulder or chest.

Hooks & Eyelets / Buckle Fastenings

14th–16th century

Late medieval garment fastenings made of metal or leather, attested by archaeological finds, e.g. from Kempten. Buckle fastenings with a Celtic snake motif made from vegetable-tanned buffalo leather for coats, cloaks or dresses. Calf-wrap hooks as a special form found in early medieval depictions.

Penannular brooches – open ring shapes secured by twisting the ring – were particularly common among the Celts and Vikings and are among the most robust fastenings of all. Incidentally, the phrase ‘with hooks and eyes’ has its roots in late medieval clothing fastenings: small metal hooks, which were hooked into corresponding eyes, held collars, cotte and surcots together.

Materials and finishes: bronze, brass, leather

Material Typical era / culture Character Care Price range
Bronze Viking Age, Merovingian period Historic warm reddish clay, develops a natural patina Store in a dry place, treat occasionally with bronze polish approx. €11–27
Brass Late Middle Ages, Viking Age Historical yellow-gold tone, corrosion-resistant Polish with a soft cloth approx. €10–16
Silver-plated Vikings (upper class), High Middle Ages Premium light silver sheen, jewellery-like finish Silver polishing cloth, store in a dry place approx. €24–30
Vegetable-tanned buffalo leather Celts, Early Middle Ages Historically untreated, robust, retains its shape Leather grease, store in a dry place approx. €13–14

Epochs and cultures: Who wore which clasp?

c. 450–750 AD

The Frankish & Merovingian period

Frankish bow-shaped brooches featuring animal heads and geometric patterns are characteristic of this era. They were worn on the shoulder or chest and served both to fasten cloaks and to display wealth. Original finds from the Frankish region serve as models for today’s replicas.

793–1066 AD

Viking Age

Clover-leaf brooches such as the Värnamo brooch, bow-shaped brooches and animal-style ornamentation (Urnes style, Jörmungand, Hugin & Munin) dominate the scene. Two-part brass cloak fasteners for caftans and cloaks, as well as calf-wrapping hooks for early medieval depictions, complete the range.

Iron Age to Migration Period

Celts

Penannular brooches (open ring shape) and leather buckle fastenings, often featuring zoomorphic motifs such as the snake motif, are typically Celtic. Ring brooches were placed on the shoulder or chest and secured by twisting – a remarkably simple yet extremely reliable system.

14th–16th century

Late Middle Ages

Metal hooks and eyelets increasingly replaced older brooches. Archaeological finds, for example from Kempten, attest to the prevalence of this fastening style on cotte, surcoat and collars. The bronze fleur-de-lis garment clasp is a typical example of late medieval jewellery design.

For beginners and advanced learners: prices and quality levels

Entry level · approx. €10–14

Simple brass or bronze fasteners in Viking style, cloak fasteners and caftan fasteners, as well as calf-wrap hook sets. Ideal for first outfits, medieval festivals or costumes where the overall look counts, not archaeological accuracy. The Urnes-style Jörmungand garment clasp and the Gulbische Viking/Rus clasp also fall into this price range.

LARP & Market · approx. €14–22

Fastenings based on archaeological models, leather buckle fastenings made from vegetable-tanned buffalo leather with a Celtic snake motif (brown or black), Frankish bronze bow-shaped brooches. For performers who prioritise a coherent look and solid craftsmanship without aiming for full museum-grade authenticity.

Reenactment & Collectors · from €22

The Värnamo cloverleaf brooch in bronze or silver-plated – crafted based on a historically documented Viking Age find – as well as the Merovingian Frankish bow brooch in a silver-plated version. Jewellery with collector’s value, suitable for high-quality reenactment performances.

Reenactment vs. LARP: The right clasp for your needs

Reenactment & Authenticity
  • Based on archaeological finds (e.g. Värnamo find, Frankish original)
  • Historically documented materials: bronze, brass, vegetable-tanned leather
  • Period accuracy: Viking Age ≠ Late Middle Ages
  • Animal-style ornamentation consistent with the historical context
  • No fantasy elements – only documented motifs
LARP & Medieval Festival
  • Appearance and comfort are the priority
  • Fantasy motifs and free combinations permitted
  • Durability is important for frequent use
  • Stylised motifs such as fleur-de-lis or vine patterns are also permitted
  • A wide range: authentic-looking, without museum-quality standards

If you are putting together a Viking outfit for a historical re-enactment, a cloverleaf brooch or a bow brooch with a documented find site is recommended as a model. For a medieval garment when visiting a market or attending a LARP event, a brass cloak clasp or a leather buckle fastening works just as well – without compromising on authenticity.

How to fasten garment clasps correctly

Gather the fabric at the desired point, push the pin through both layers of fabric from below and hook it under the bar or fastening. No sewing required – the brooch holds in place through a clamping action. Important: gather enough fabric so that the pin sits securely and does not tear out. Ideal for capes and cloaks.

Both halves of the fastener are sewn onto the fabric – each on the corresponding side of the fastening area. The two parts are then inserted into one another or hooked together. This variant is particularly sturdy and is suitable for heavier fabrics such as woollen coats and Viking-era caftans.

Hooks and eyes are sewn onto the edge of the garment or collar. The hook catches into the eye and keeps the fastening closed. Can be combined with tassels and tassel cords for a historically accurate overall look. Suitable for cotte, surcoat and late medieval clothing.

The leather strap of the buckle fastening is threaded through the loop or ring and hooked in place. For long-term use, the attachment to the fabric can also be reinforced with rivets. Vegetable-tanned buffalo leather is particularly dimensionally stable – once broken in, the fastening fits perfectly. Regular greasing with leather grease maintains its suppleness.

Vehi Mercatus has been a specialist retailer for the Middle Ages, re-enactment and LARP for over 20 years – with Trusted Shops certification, a 30-day return policy and telephone advice Mon–Fri 8am–12pm and 1pm–3pm. 🛡️

From simple brass cloak clasps to the historically documented Värnamo cloverleaf brooch – here you’ll find garment clasps for every era, every requirement and every budget. Browse through the range and give your costume the authentic finishing touch it’s missing.

Frequently asked questions

A garment brooch is a piece of jewellery with an integrated pin mechanism – one of the oldest fastening systems in Europe. The pin is inserted through the gathered fabric and hooked under a bar or a securing device. In this way, the brooch holds the fabric together without needing to be sewn on. Brooches have been found in almost all European cultures since the Bronze Age.

Garment tailors were medieval craftsmen who specialised in cutting and sewing clothing – comparable to today’s tailors. They worked closely with cloth weavers and dyers and supplied both the common people and the nobility. Their craft was organised into guilds and enjoyed high social standing.

For a Viking-era re-enactment, clover-leaf brooches (e.g. based on the Värnamo find), U-shaped brooches in the Urnes or Borre style, and two-part cloak fasteners made of brass or bronze are recommended. For a higher standard of authenticity, the brooch should correspond to an archaeological find. For LARP and market events, stylised Viking motifs such as Jörmungand or Hugin & Munin are also a good choice.

Hooks and eyes as garment fastenings are attested by archaeological finds from the late Middle Ages, including those from Kempten (14th–16th centuries). This involves hooking a small metal hook into a matching eyelet – a simple but reliable system for collars, cotte and surcoat. The well-known phrase ‘with hooks and eyes’ derives precisely from this fastening technique.

With two-piece coat fastenings, both halves of the fastening are sewn onto the fabric – each on opposite sides of the fastening area. The two parts are then inserted into one another or hooked together. This method is very sturdy and is particularly suitable for heavy fabrics such as woollen coats and cloaks.

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