Riveting
Tassels – that is, tassel cords and tassel tips – are among the small but indispensable details of an authentic medieval costume. Once you understand how these simple cords and metal tips work, you won’t want to be without them in your outfit.
What are nestels? Meaning and historical background
The word ‘nesteln’ dates back to Old High German and Middle High German and means ‘to fasten with ribbons or cords’. The corresponding cords – nestle ribbons, nestle cords or simply nestles – are also known by the synonyms ‘laces’ and ‘braided loops’. Essentially, they are narrow braided or hand-knotted ribbons that served as a fastening system on garments before buttons and hooks became widespread in the late Middle Ages.
From the High Middle Ages onwards, lacing became an everyday method of fastening clothing. It joined garments that would otherwise have remained open: the bodice was drawn together with it, the sleeve attached to the upper part, and the front of the doublet held in place. Threaded through eyelets or sewn-in lacing holes, garments could be draped tightly or loosely – a flexible system that remained in use well into the Renaissance. Archaeological finds from the 13th to the 16th century, including those from London and Zurich, attest to the widespread use of both simple cords and metal-tipped lacing ends.
Overview of materials and designs
| Material | Period / Suitability | Typical area of use | Care requirements |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | High to Late Middle Ages / LARP | Everyday and market vendor attire, colourful combinations | Low – machine washable |
| Mulberry silk | Late Middle Ages / Reenactment | Fine garments, slightly lustrous finish | Medium – hand wash recommended |
| Leather | Early Middle Ages / Reenactment | Shoulder lacing, rough fastenings | Medium – leather care required |
| Brass tips | High to Late Middle Ages | Fastening on doublets, bodices, leggings | Low – occasional polishing |
Tassels in medieval clothing – where and how were they used?
In medieval clothing and attire, lacing was used in numerous places. The best-known example is the lacing of doublets and bodices: the laces were threaded through lacing holes and tightened at the front or back, much like a shoelace in a shoe. The lacing holes themselves had to be reinforced – either by dense stitching or by incorporating metal eyelets – otherwise the fabric would quickly tear under strain.
Another typical application was detachable sleeves. Particularly in the late Middle Ages, sleeves were not sewn in permanently but attached to the bodice with lacing. This had practical advantages: one could change sleeves, wash them or remove them in hot weather. The connection between trousers and leggings to the doublet or cotehardie was also frequently achieved using lacing. Anyone who wears historical trousers is familiar with this fastening mechanism – without sturdy laces, the construction will not hold up in the long run.
In addition to their functional use, they also served a decorative purpose: visible, hanging laces with polished brass tips adorned courtly garments in particular and were a status symbol. For most applications, a lace length of around 40–50 cm covers the majority of requirements.
Nestle cords by period and occasion
In the High Middle Ages, simple, undyed or natural-coloured cords made of linen and wool were predominant. Metal tips were available, but not yet as widespread as they later became. For a historical men’s garment from this period, simple natural brown or white nestel cords without elaborate metal tips are therefore sufficient.
The Late Middle Ages marked the heyday of cord culture: coloured cords in red, blue, green and black, brass tips at both ends, and more elaborate braiding techniques. Contrasting colour combinations were often chosen for women’s garments such as the cotehardie or surcoat. The hand-knotted cotton cord ties in the Vehi-Mercatus range are modelled precisely on this period.
During the Renaissance, the ends of the cordage became more elaborate: alongside brass, silver-plated or gold-plated variants were also used. The cords themselves became finer and were more often made of silk. Anyone wishing to create a Renaissance costume should ideally opt for mulberry silk cordage combined with polished brass tips – this captures the historical look very well.
For most LARP costumes and re-enactment outfits, hand-knotted replicas made of cotton or mulberry silk with brass tips cover around 95% of requirements. The cords must be robust enough to withstand the rigours of daily use at events and visually match the historical model – the nestle cords available in our range fulfil both criteria.
Selecting and attaching cord ends – practical tips
The cord ends – sometimes also referred to as agraffes – are the metal ferrules fitted to the end of the cord. They serve a dual purpose: they prevent the cord ends from fraying and make it considerably easier to thread through narrow cord holes. The brass replica cord ends in our range are available in an extra-large size, making them particularly suitable for thicker cords or clearly visible lacing.
There are essentially two methods of attachment: sewing or riveting. The tips have two small holes for this purpose. Sewing is the historically more accurate and, in practice, more durable method for textile cords – the thread grips the cord surface better than a rivet. Riveting is quicker, but can slip on soft cord materials. Compatibility is also important: the inner diameter of the tip must match the cord diameter. The extra-large replica nestle tips from the range go well with the hand-knotted cotton and silk cords from the same range.
Nestle tips are available individually or as a set of six – for a complete garment with multiple fastenings, the set is recommended to ensure a uniform finish and size.
For beginners and advanced crafters – an overview of the range
Hand-knotted drawstring ties in 10 cm lengths to try out – ideal for first costume projects and for testing colours and textures before ordering the final length. Available in many colour combinations made from cotton.
Hand-knotted cords made from cotton and mulberry silk in various colours and colour combinations – for LARP players and re-enactors who value a more authentic look and a subtle sheen. The mulberry silk version is particularly suitable for high-quality late medieval costumes.
Tassel cords including brass tips as ready-made tassels – ready for immediate use without any further accessories. Alternatively: tassel tips sold separately for those who wish to make their own cords or enhance existing cords in a historically accurate manner.
Tassel cords and tassel tips – what is the difference?
- The actual cord or ribbon
- Braided or hand-knotted
- Materials: cotton, mulberry silk, linen, leather
- Various colours and colour combinations
- Historical references dating from the 13th century
- Can also be used as a decorative cord or embellishment
- The metal ferrule at the end of the cord
- Prevents fraying, makes threading easier
- Often made of brass; historically also silver or gold-plated
- For sewing on or riveting
- Finds from the 13th–16th centuries documented across Europe
- Available individually or as a set
A finished tassel refers to the complete unit comprising cord and attached tips – usually sold as a set of several pieces so that a garment can be fully accessorised. Those who are building their outfit step by step can also buy cords and tips separately and combine them as required.
Whether you’re lacing up your first costume or enhancing an existing outfit with historically accurate cord ends – in this category you’ll find hand-knotted cords, ready-made cords with brass tips and individual cord ends for DIY projects. Browse through the range and find the right option for your project.
Frequently asked questions
Lace-ups are narrow braided or hand-knotted cords that served as historical fastenings for clothing. The word dates back to Old High German and Middle High German and means something like ‘to fasten with ribbons or cords’. Synonyms include nestle ribbon, nestle cord or lace. They were used as a fastening system on garments from the High Middle Ages onwards – before buttons and hooks became widespread.
A lacing tip (also known as an agraffe) is the metal ferrule attached to the end of a lacing cord. It prevents the cord from fraying and makes it easier to thread through narrow lacing holes. Brass agraffes are historically documented and typical of High and Late Medieval garments. They can be sewn on or riveted, although sewing is more durable for textile cords.
For most applications – bodices, doublets, sleeve fastenings – lacing cords of around 40 to 50 cm in length are sufficient. For leggings or particularly wide lacing, a greater length may be advisable. The 10 cm sample pieces in our range are ideal for assessing colour and texture in advance before you decide on the final length.
Historically, cords made of linen, wool, silk and – more rarely – leather are documented. Natural-coloured linen cords were common in the High Middle Ages, whilst coloured cords made of silk and cotton became popular in the Late Middle Ages. For LARP and re-enactment, hand-knotted cotton or mulberry silk cords with brass tips cover the majority of requirements very well.
Yes – our range includes cord without tips, ready-made cord ends with brass tips already attached, and cord tips sold individually or in sets of six. If you make your own cord or wish to upgrade existing cord, you can buy tips separately. If you want to get started straight away, opt for the ready-made cord ends including brass tips.