Rivets, rings, distributors etc.
Chain rings for riveting, brass rivets, gusset plates, belt loops – this category is aimed at anyone who likes to get stuck in: whether it’s a chainmail shirt, a sword scabbard, a leather strap or a historical accessory. Here you’ll find the metal components that make all the difference to the durability and authenticity of your DIY project.
What’s behind the category – an overview
At first glance, chain rings, rivets, gusset plates and belt loops seem like a colourful mix with no common thread – yet the connecting idea is quickly apparent: all these parts are fitted by hand, whether in re-enactment, LARP or historically inspired DIY projects. We’re not talking about blind rivets to DIN standards or threaded rivets from industrial supplies, but rather decorative rivets, solid rivets, hollow rivets and distributors used in leather and chainwork – aesthetically pleasing and historically plausible.
Those who delve deeper into the craft will find complementary materials in related categories such as cowhide leather straps, sheet metal or buckles for belts and bags. Together with the rivets, rings and splices, this results in a complete toolkit for your own projects – from a simple leather strap to a homemade chainmail shirt.
Rivets for leather: types, materials and applications
Riveting leather is one of the oldest traditional joining techniques – and remains the first choice in re-enactment and LARP when it comes to belts, sword scabbards, knife pouches or armour straps. Which rivet is suitable for which purpose depends on the type, material and leather thickness.
| Rivet type | Suitability | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Hollow rivets (two-piece) | LARP | Belts, straps, bags – quick to set with a hammer or pliers |
| Solid rivets / copper rivets | Historical | Leather fastenings, scabbard making – classic technique, historically accurate |
| Decorative rivets / round rivets | LARP | Decorative applications, horse harness look, applied on one side |
| Brass rivets | Historical | Ceremonial belts, scabbard fittings – warm golden finish, corrosion-resistant |
There are three main material options: Brass impresses with its warm colour and good corrosion resistance – ideal for decorative work on belts or scabbard fittings. Steel is more robust and is suitable for functional joints that must withstand mechanical stress. Copper has a well-documented historical use and is particularly valued for solid rivets, as it deforms slightly during riveting and forms a solid joint.
An important rule of thumb: the rivet shank should be at least 2–3 mm longer than the thickness of the leather to be penetrated – this is the only way to ensure the shank can be riveted cleanly or joined to the backing plate. If working with thin leather (under 2 mm), you should also allow for a reinforcement disc on the reverse side.
Chain rings: stamped, riveted, hand-forged
Chain rings are the heart of every self-made chainmail – and the differences between the available variants are greater than they appear at first glance. Stamped rings made from steel wire are the standard material for classic chainmail: precise dimensions, consistent wire thickness and good availability make them an efficient choice for larger projects. Hand-forged rings, on the other hand, have a more rustic surface with slight irregularities – authentic for early medieval and Viking-era re-enactments, where machine-made uniformity would be out of place.
Chain rings for riveting play a special role: this historically documented method, in which alternately riveted and stamped rings interlock, significantly increases the stability of the weave and was widely used in high-quality coifs and chainmail shirts of the High Middle Ages. In our range, you will find sets that already combine stamped and riveted rings – including round rivet heads.
When shopping, it is worth keeping three key figures in mind: the inner diameter (ID) determines how many rings are needed per area and which weaving patterns are possible. The wire gauge influences weight and protective effect – thicker wire offers better protection but is heavier. The aspect ratio (AR), i.e. the ratio of inner diameter to wire gauge, determines which weaving patterns are even feasible: a 4-in-1 pattern requires different AR values than a 6-in-1 or a Byzantine pattern. You can find additional accessories such as eyelets and special connecting rings in the Chainmail Rings and Accessories category.
Spacers, tip plates and belt loops – the underrated details
Anyone building or restoring a sword scabbard cannot do without a tip plate: the metal fitting at the tip of the scabbard protects the leather from wear caused by the blade’s thickness and provides a neat finish to the scabbard. Historically, tip plates were made of brass or iron – an antique finish allows you to quickly achieve an authentic patina. The Viking sword scabbard end plate in brass from our range is suitable for both new builds and repairs to existing scabbards.
The late medieval belt hanger (1300–1500) is another example of a small component that makes a big impact on the overall look: it allows bags, daggers or drinking vessels to be attached to the belt strap – without any loops or Velcro fastenings. Historically, this requires a strap at least 20 mm wide. You can also find suitable leather straps for medieval belts in the shop.
Distributors serve as connecting elements for multi-part armour straps, for example when arm or leg armour is secured using several straps. They are indispensable, particularly for more complex armour-making projects, to ensure even force distribution. All these small parts have one thing in common: they are barely noticeable in the finished piece – but their absence would be immediately apparent to anyone familiar with the scene.
Historical rivets and rings in the Middle Ages – a brief look back
Rivets as a universal joining technique
Rivets are considered one of humanity’s oldest joining techniques. In the early Middle Ages, they were ubiquitous: on shield fittings, sword hilts, armour components and leather goods. The technique was simple, the result durable – and alternatives such as screws or welding were simply not available.
Riveted chainmail and decorative rivets
With the rise of the chainmail as the primary protective garment of the High Middle Ages, chain rings gained enormous significance. Alternately riveted rings significantly increased stability. At the same time, decorative brass rivets adorned horse harness, ceremonial belts and prestigious leather goods of the nobility – serving both functional and aesthetic purposes.
Rings as jewellery and status symbols
Rings in the medieval context were by no means limited to chain mail. As medieval rings and part of medieval jewellery, they served as status symbols, signet rings and tokens of love. Signet rings of the upper classes, simple bronze rings for the common people and richly decorated goldsmith’s work demonstrate the full range of this category of objects.
Rivets lose their significance – but remain in craftsmanship
With the advent of screws, later welding technology and finally industrial manufacturing, rivets became less common in mass production. In craftsmanship, in the field of historical leather goods and in re-enactment, however, they have remained indispensable – for only the rivet produces that handcrafted quality which machine-made joints cannot replicate.
Quality and selection – what to look out for
Hand-forged carbon steel knife blade blanks for your first DIY projects. Rustic look thanks to the forged surface, suitable for handle and sheath construction. A good entry-level option without breaking the bank.
Loose steel chain rings (e.g. flat rings ID 9 mm, 17 gauge) and late medieval belt pendants. Solid quality from manufacturers such as Battle Merchant and Lord of Battles – for first chainmail projects and authentic belt fittings.
1 kg sets containing stamped and rivetable chain rings, including round rivet heads (Ø 6 mm, steel) and Viking rivet plates made of brass with an antique finish. For advanced projects where historical accuracy and durability are paramount.
As a general rule: Hand-forged parts are suitable for early medieval and Viking-era reenactments, where slight irregularities contribute to authenticity. Machine-stamped rings are the better choice for efficient chainmail construction with a uniform aspect ratio. Always check compatibility: rivets to leather thickness, rings to the desired weave pattern, and gusset plates to the type of scabbard. You can also find additional materials for scabbard construction under Knife Blades and Blanks as well as Sword Accessories.
Practical guide: Setting rivets into leather
For riveting leather, you’ll need a leather punch or a hole punch to pre-punch the leather cleanly – a simple knife leaves ragged edges. For hollow rivets, a hammer and a simple anvil or an inexpensive rivet set from a leather craft shop will suffice. A rivet gun is not suitable here: these tools are designed for blind rivets in industrial and construction applications and are not suitable for decorative or historical leather rivets. Expensive specialist pliers are only worthwhile for larger projects involving hundreds of rivets – for a single belt set or a sword scabbard, simple basic tools are perfectly adequate.
1. Pre-punch the hole: Use a hole punch to select the correct diameter – the hole should fit snugly around the rivet shank, not be too large. 2. Insert the shank: Guide the rivet shank through the leather from the front. 3. Fit the base plate: Place the second half of the hollow rivet (base plate) onto the shank. 4. Rivet: On the anvil, strike the rivet setter evenly with the hammer until the base plate is firmly seated and the shank is flared. For solid rivets / copper rivets: Use the hammer to neatly bend and smooth the shank.
The most common mistake is a rivet shank that is too short: if the shank is shorter than the leather thickness plus 2–3 mm, a solid connection cannot be achieved – the rivet sits loosely or falls out. Another problem: leather that is too thin without a reinforcement washer. For leather thicknesses of less than about 2 mm, a metal washer on the back should provide stability. Using the wrong tool – such as a hole punch that is too large – leads to frayed holes, which reduce the rivet’s hold. Take the time to make the correct pilot hole: it is the most important step in the entire process.
Whether you’re riveting a chainmail shirt, finishing a sword scabbard with a guard plate, or decorating a leather belt with historical brass rivets – the right metal parts make the difference between a simple project and a historically accurate artefact. Browse the category and find exactly the part your project needs.
Frequently asked questions
The three main types are hollow rivets (two-piece, set with a hammer or pliers), solid rivets or copper rivets (classic riveted joint, historically accurate) and decorative rivets (set on one side, purely decorative). In addition, there are brass rivets for decorative work on belts or scabbard fittings, as well as steel rivets for joints subject to particularly high stress.
As a rule of thumb: the rivet shank should be at least 2–3 mm longer than the thickness of the leather to be penetrated. This is the only way to ensure the shank can be cleanly riveted or the backing plate securely attached. For very thin leather under 2 mm, a metal washer on the reverse side is also recommended to improve hold.
For leatherwork in medieval and re-enactment contexts, hollow rivets and solid rivets made of brass, copper or steel are best suited. Industrial blind rivets (such as those from DIY stores) are not suitable for this purpose, as they require a different setting tool and do not look appropriate for historical projects. Special leather rivets can be worked with simple tools such as a hammer, anvil and punch.
Stamped chain rings are machine-made from steel wire and are characterised by precise, uniform dimensions – ideal for efficient chainmail construction with a consistent aspect ratio. Hand-forged rings have a more rustic surface with slight irregularities and are particularly authentic for early medieval and Viking-era reenactments. Riveted rings, which alternate between stamped and riveted rings, significantly increase the stability of the weave and are well documented historically.
The tip plate is a metal fitting at the tip of a sword scabbard. It protects the leather from wear caused by the blade tip and provides a neat, finished look to the scabbard. Historically, tip plates were made from brass or iron, often with an antique finish to create an authentic patina. They are suitable for both new builds and for repairing existing scabbards.