The Gugel in the Middle Ages - versatile headgear for your costume
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The gugel is one of the most famous medieval head coverings of all – it combines a hood, shoulder protection and a scarf in a single garment and was indispensable for both men and women from the Early Middle Ages right through to the Late Middle Ages. Whether for your historical costume, a Viking re-enactment or your next LARP event: here you’ll find hoods made of wool and cotton in a wide range of colours and styles – from simple starter models to authentic Skjoldehamn replicas.
What is a gugel? Form, function and significance
The term ‘gugel’ is derived from the Latin ‘cucullus’ – the hood or monk’s cap. The garment itself has a tube-like structure: an opening accommodates the head, a wide flap drapes over the shoulders and back, and a tail tapering towards the back or top completes the characteristic silhouette.
Functionally, the gugel is a combination of a hood, a scarf and a short cape. It protects the head, neck and shoulders from wind, rain and cold – much like the hood of a modern jacket, except that it is worn as a standalone garment and is therefore much more versatile for layering. This versatility really comes into its own on long evenings at the medieval market or in the military camp: the gugel can be slipped over a tunic or medieval shirt without obscuring the rest of the outfit.
History of the hood: From the Skjoldehamn hood to the late Middle Ages
Earliest find: Skjoldehamn
A hood made of characteristic herringbone fabric was discovered at the Norwegian farmstead of Skjoldehamn – dated to the 10th to 11th centuries. The find proves that the late Vikings were already familiar with hood-like headgear of this form. Due to its practicality, the Skjoldehamn hood is also used today in depictions of earlier Vikings.
High Middle Ages: Widespread use across all social classes
From the 12th century onwards, the hood can be traced as everyday clothing across all social classes. Peasants, craftsmen and travellers valued its protection from the weather; at noble courts, it began to establish itself as a fashion item. Simple woollen hoods in natural colours dominated the scene.
Golden age and diversity of styles
The Codex Manesse provides prominent examples: Burghard von Hohenfels and Margrave Otto von Brandenburg are depicted wearing the typical hood, attesting to its prevalence even among the nobility. In the 14th and 15th centuries, elaborate variations developed, featuring flaps, two-tone colouring and the chaperon worn backwards.
Late Middle Ages and Early Modern Period
Pieter Bruegel’s painting The Peasant Wedding attests to the gugel’s continued use in the 16th century. It thus spans almost the entire Middle Ages and extends into the Renaissance – an exceptionally long cultural-historical arc for a single item of clothing.
Chaperon, flaps, Mi-Parti: the hood and its variations
Chaperon
With the chaperon, the hood is simply worn inside out: the face opening is pulled over the head, whilst the flaps and hood are draped decoratively. What began as a playful way of wearing it developed into a headdress in its own right, which could no longer be worn as a hood. This elegant variant was worn predominantly by men at court.
Zatteln
Instead of a straight hem, the Zattel hood features jagged or trefoil-shaped fabric strips adorning the edge. This Bohemian-influenced fashion was highly decorative and paired well with similarly embellished outer garments. Anyone planning a late medieval portrayal will find Zatteln to be a distinctive detail.
Centre front & button placket
The Mi-Parti hood features different colours on the left and right – combined with colour-coordinated outer garments, this creates a striking check pattern. Hoods with a button placket also allow the collar to be worn open or closed, adapting to different weather and style requirements.
Which fabric for the hood? A comparison of wool, cotton and historical materials
| Material | Suitability | Properties |
|---|---|---|
| Wool | Historical | Most commonly used material; water-repellent to a certain extent, warm, breathable. Skjoldehamn find made of characteristic herringbone fabric. Ideal for re-enactment and cold evenings outdoors. |
| Herringbone fabric (wool) | Historical | Specific weave pattern from the Skjoldehamn find; typical of early medieval and Viking depictions. Sturdy construction, distinctive texture. |
| Linen | Historical | A lighter alternative, particularly when fashion takes precedence over weather protection. Suitable for summer events. |
| Cotton | LARP | A modern, more affordable material. Beginner-friendly, easy to care for, available in many colours. No historical evidence for Gugeln. |
Historically, hoods – unlike some other hooded caps – were often worn in bold colours: red, blue, green, brown, black and natural colours were used depending on dyeing options and budget. Multicoloured designs and elaborate dyeing were a sign of wealth.
Gugel for men and women: How to incorporate them into your outfit
The cotton hood is the straightforward entry-level option: affordable, easy to care for and available in many colours. Pair it with a simple medieval shirt or tunic and plain trousers – and your basic outfit for market visits and first LARP events is ready. This version is particularly practical for children’s costumes.
Men can pair a woollen hood with a tunic or medieval shirt, medieval trousers, a long belt and suitable footwear. A banded hood is recommended as an under-hood for an authentic layered look and a better fit. A felt hat can also be worn over the hood.
Women can wear the hood as a warming accessory over a medieval dress or skirt – particularly on chilly evenings at markets or in the army camp. A headband or headscarf underneath is historically accurate and improves the fit.
For historically accurate re-enactments, the Skjoldehamn hood made of herringbone fabric is ideal – inspired by the archaeological find of the same name from Norway. Combined with Viking clothing, woollen stockings and leather shoes, it creates an early medieval outfit faithful to the sources. For late medieval re-enactments, hoods with flaps or a split front provide the appropriate historical depth.
Hoods for every era and every occasion: re-enactment, LARP and medieval markets
The Skjoldehamn hood made of herringbone fabric is the best-documented historical starting point for early medieval headwear in a Scandinavian context. It is suitable for late Viking Age re-enactments and fits well with an ensemble of a woollen tunic, woollen trousers and leather shoes. The two-tone herringbone variants in olive/grey, burgundy/grey or black/grey are particularly characteristic.
For High Medieval depictions, simple woollen hoods in muted natural colours – brown, grey, off-white or subtle green – are recommended. This style suits peasants, craftsmen and ordinary travellers as well as lower nobility. Pair them with a woollen tunic and simple leather footwear.
The Late Middle Ages offer the greatest variety of styles: hoods with flaps, the chaperon worn backwards and two-tone Mi-Parti versions allow for elaborate portrayals. Bold colours such as red, blue or black were quite common during this period and are historically documented. They combine well with a cloak or coat for a complete outfit.
In the LARP sector, the hood is a versatile accessory that can be combined with almost any medieval or fantasy-inspired outfit. Cotton models are particularly popular here, as they are affordable and easy to care for. Darker colours such as black or dark green suit rogue or ranger characters well; lighter shades are suitable for merchants, mages or pilgrim portrayals.
The hood is the all-round accessory for long evenings at the medieval market: it keeps you warm when temperatures drop, can be quickly slipped over your existing outfit and is also useful in changeable weather. Lighter cotton styles, which are easy to clean, are suitable for children.
To go with the hood: other headwear and costume accessories
The hood works best in combination with other garments. A ruff is ideal as an under-hood: it improves the fit, keeps the neck extra warm and is historically accurate for many medieval depictions. For men, a felt hat is a good alternative or addition that can be worn over the hood and further characterises the outfit.
Historically, women would wear a headband or headscarf as a hair covering beneath the hood – a combination well-documented in medieval visual sources. Those wishing to complete the outfit from the top down will find a medieval cloak or coat to be the ideal outer garment for layering. The outfit is finished off at the bottom with suitable footwear and a well-fitting belt – both of which harmoniously round off any ensemble.
Whether it’s a Viking portrayal with the Skjoldehamn hood made of herringbone fabric, a late medieval chaperon with tassels, or a simple woollen hood for the next medieval market – browse through all the styles and colours and complete your outfit with the right hood.
Frequently asked questions
A gugel is a tube-shaped medieval head covering that combines a hood, scarf and short cape in a single garment. It is pulled over the head, with a wide brim covering the shoulders and back and a characteristic pointed tip defining its appearance. The term is derived from the Latin ‘cucullus’ (monk’s cap). Historically, it served primarily to protect against wind, rain and cold.
Historically, wool was the most commonly used material for hoods: it is water-repellent to a certain extent, warm and breathable. The earliest find, the Skjoldehamn hood, is made of characteristic woollen herringbone fabric. Linen was used for lighter or summer versions. Modern hoods made of cotton are an affordable and easy-care option for beginners, but there is no historical evidence of them being used for hoods.
The earliest archaeological find of a gugel comes from the Norwegian farmstead of Skjoldehamn and dates to the 10th to 11th centuries – thus the history of the gugel stretches back to the late Viking Age. From the 12th century onwards, the hood became widespread across all social classes during the High Middle Ages; its heyday was in the 13th to 15th centuries, as evidenced by numerous pictorial sources such as the Codex Manesse.
Historically, hoods were worn by both men and women and were part of everyday culture in the late Middle Ages for both sexes. For women, we recommend pairing it with a medieval dress or skirt, as well as a headscarf or kerchief as an under-hood. Men typically combined the hood with a tunic, trousers and a belt.
The chaperon evolved from the hood simply by wearing it inside out: the face opening was pulled over the head, with the points and hood draped decoratively. What began as a playful way of wearing it developed in the 14th and 15th centuries into a distinct form of headwear at court, which could no longer be worn as a classic hood. Chaperons were predominantly a men’s fashion item.