Medieval trousers, Viking trousers and leg warmers for men
Medieval trousers, Viking trousers and leggings for men
Medieval attire for men starts from the bottom up – quite literally: no outfit is complete without the right trousers or leggings. Whether you’re looking for authentic Viking trousers made from diamond-weave wool, sturdy Thorsberg trousers for a Germanic re-enactment, or classic leggings for the High Middle Ages – understanding the cuts, materials and eras behind each model will help you make the right choice when buying.
What trousers were worn in the Middle Ages? A historical overview
Bracae – Celtic-Germanic precursors
The Romans referred to the loose-fitting trousers of the Celts and Germanic peoples as bracae. Depending on the region and era, these early trousers reached down to the knee or below the ankle and, in contrast to the tunic-centred Roman fashion, were regarded as a ‘barbaric’ garment – which makes them all the more interesting for Germanic and Celtic re-enactments.
Thorsberg trousers – the oldest pair of trousers ever found
The find in the Thorsberg Moor (Schleswig-Holstein) is considered one of the oldest preserved trouser finds in Europe. Its dating is scientifically disputed and ranges from the 1st to the 4th century depending on the source – precise dating remains difficult. The characteristic cut, with a foot section and wide legs, now forms the basis for many Thorsberg trousers in the re-enactment community and is equally suitable for depictions of Germanic peoples and early Vikings.
Rushose – the Viking harem trousers
Finds from settlements such as Haithabu and Birka provide evidence of wide harem trousers in the Nordic region during the Early Middle Ages. The so-called Rushose – named after the Rus Vikings – is characterised by a particularly wide cut, which is gathered at the ankle or combined with calf wraps. It is the most characteristic legwear for authentic Viking attire.
Leggings – the split leg garment
Leggings are not trousers in the modern sense, but two-piece legwear: one piece per leg, fastened to a belt with drawstrings. From the early Middle Ages until the 14th century, they were an integral part of men’s clothing and are today regarded as perhaps the most typical hallmark of medieval attire – because they never made it into the modern era.
Crotch-flap trousers – transition to the late Middle Ages
In the late Middle Ages, tighter cuts fitted to the hips and legs replaced the two-piece leggings. The codpiece trousers combine both leg pieces into a single garment and are the direct precursor to modern trousers. Combined with a doublet, this creates the classic late medieval outfit.
Fit, sizes and care: What you should know before buying
Most styles are available in sizes S to XXL. Selected styles – including Thorsberg trousers and Rush trousers – are also available in XXXL and XXXXL. To choose the right size, measure the circumference at the widest part of your hips with a tape measure and compare this with the relevant size chart in the product details. Loose-fitting styles such as Rush trousers or Thorsberg trousers are generally more forgiving of fit variations than more figure-hugging styles.
Cotton and linen can generally be machine-washed at 30°C. Important: Do not tumble dry – this prevents excessive shrinkage. Hang the garments up to dry and gently reshape them. For our own brand, Vehi Mercatus, the fabrics are manufactured to our own specifications in specialist weaving mills; special fabric preparation significantly reduces post-wash shrinkage.
Wool is more sensitive to heat and friction than plant-based fibres. Wool trousers should be washed at a maximum of 30°C on a gentle cycle or by hand – ideally with a mild wool detergent. Do not tumble dry or wring out. Always read the care instructions for the specific product to avoid colour bleeding or felting.
If you want to be on the safe side, give new garments a cold wash before wearing them for the first time. This is particularly advisable with linen, which can shrink more during the first wash than in subsequent washes. Wash intensely dyed items separately to prevent colour transfer onto lighter garments.
Leggings: The medieval legwear that disappeared
Leggings differ fundamentally from trousers: they consist of two separate pieces – one for each leg – which are fastened at the top to the bruche with drawstrings. The bruche, a kind of close-fitting pair of underpants, is not an optional accessory, but the essential foundation for the leggings outfit: without the bruche, there is no support.
Leggings were worn from the early Middle Ages through to the 14th century. They were made of wool or linen, and both colour and material signalled social status: a peasant wore undyed or plain-coloured leggings made of coarse wool, whilst a nobleman could afford elaborately dyed pieces in madder red or woad blue. Today, leggings are considered perhaps the most authentic medieval legwear of all – precisely because they never made the leap into the modern era and were therefore not altered by later fashions. They are therefore almost indispensable for depictions of the High Middle Ages.
A comparison of materials: wool, linen and cotton
| Material | Suitability | Properties |
|---|---|---|
| Wool (diamond twill, herringbone) | Re-enactment | The most historically authentic material; temperature-regulating; weave type influences appearance and feel; ideal for re-enactments of Germanic and Viking cultures |
| Linen | Reenactment | Lightweight, highly breathable; suitable for warmer seasons; historically documented; natural or plant-dyed |
| Cotton | LARP / Beginners | Not medieval, but a natural fibre; visually similar to linen; affordable option for beginners; washable and easy to care for |
| Polyester blend | Costume | Affordable and retains its shape; unsuitable for re-enactment with historical standards; functional for costumes and single-use |
Our own brand, Vehi Mercatus, relies exclusively on natural fibres – a conscious decision, as the fabrics are manufactured in weaving mills to our own specifications and are not mass-produced off-the-peg items.
Which model suits which portrayal?
Germanic tribes & early Middle Ages
The Thorsberg trousers are the model of choice: loose fit, with cuffs, made of wool. Authentic re-enactments rely on undyed or natural-coloured wool fabrics in diamond twill or herringbone weave. Combining them with a tunic and leg wraps creates a harmonious overall look.
Vikings & Early Middle Ages
Both rush trousers and Thorsberg trousers are well documented. The rush trousers stand out for their loose, harem-style fit, finished with calf wraps. Material: wool or linen. Pair the trousers with Viking clothing for a complete early medieval outfit.
High Middle Ages
Leggings with a split dominate men’s legwear. The first narrower trouser cuts appear. Material: wool and linen. Colour scheme as a status symbol. Combine leggings with a long medieval shirt or a cotte for the classic High Medieval outfit.
For LARP and fantasy, the rule is: anything goes, provided it suits the character. Appearance and freedom of movement take precedence over historical accuracy. All styles – from Thorsberg trousers to leggings with modern fastenings – have their place in a LARP outfit.
Viking trousers: patterns, finds and historical models
- Wide, flowing cut – plenty of fabric on the leg
- Finds from Haithabu and Birka (8th–11th centuries)
- Typical of Rus Vikings and Nordic depictions
- Tied at the ankle or worn with calf wraps
- Material: wool or linen, rarely a linen-wool blend
- Gives the overall outfit a distinctly Nordic look
- Tighter, close-fitting cut with foot section
- Find: Thorsberg Moor, dated 1st–4th century
- Suitable for depictions of Germanic peoples and early Vikings
- No lacing required – fits securely thanks to the cut and foot section
- Material: preferably wool felt, diamond-weave wool or herringbone
- Appears more compact and archaic than the rush trousers
Calf wraps are a useful addition to both styles: they protect the lower legs and ankles, keep the leggings or trouser hems in place and visually complete the Viking or Germanic look. You’ll find matching Viking calf wraps in the shop.
Brands and price ranges in the range
Entry-level cotton models – ideal for first outfits, medieval market visits or LARP adventures. Attractive appearance, easy to care for, available in many colours. Mainly from Burgschneider, the largest supplier in the range with over 100 models.
Thorsberg trousers and rush trousers made from cotton blends or lightweight woollens. Historically inspired cuts, some with lacing or toggle fastenings. Burgschneider and Battle Merchant supply the majority of the models here – Battle Merchant with a clear focus on cuts suitable for re-enactment.
Wool models in diamond twill or herringbone weave for high-quality re-enactment. Our own brand, Vehi Mercatus, uses fabrics produced to our own specifications by specialist weavers – exclusively natural fibres, no synthetics. For performers who want the material and cut to be as close as possible to the historical original.
With over 200 styles, from Thorsberg trousers to leggings, in wool, linen and cotton, you’ll find the perfect trousers here for every era and occasion – browse our range and kit out your costume from scratch.
Frequently asked questions
In the early Middle Ages, leggings – two-piece legwear made of wool or linen, fastened to a surcoat – were the typical legwear for men. In addition, there were wide harem trousers (Rushosen) in the Nordic region, as well as Thorsberg trousers, a Germanic early medieval style. In the late Middle Ages, these evolved into the Schamlatzhose, a one-piece garment.
The most important terms are: leggings (two-piece leg coverings, up to the 14th century), bruche (short underpants as a base for leggings), Thorsberg trousers (named after the bog find), rush trousers or Viking harem trousers (wide Nordic cut) and Schamlatz trousers (late Middle Ages). In the Latin world, the term ‘bracae’ was used for loose-fitting Celtic-Germanic leg coverings.
Vikings mainly wore two styles: the loose rush trousers (harem trousers) with plenty of fabric around the leg, often combined with calf wraps, and the tighter Thorsberg trousers with a foot section. Both variants were made from wool or linen – wool fabrics in diamond twill or herringbone weave are historically best documented for re-enactment purposes. Finds from Haithabu and Birka provide important clues regarding cut and material.
Bracae is the Latin term for the loose-fitting trousers worn by the Celts and Germanic peoples whom the Romans encountered during their expansion into Central and Northern Europe. The Romans regarded trousers as a sign of the ‘barbarians’, as they themselves preferred tunics and togas. Bracae could reach down to the knee or the ankle and are considered early precursors of medieval trousers.
For re-enactment, wool and linen are the historically documented materials – no other fibres appear in medieval finds. Wool fabrics in diamond twill or herringbone weave are particularly suitable for Germanic and Viking reenactments. Although cotton is not historically accurate, it is accepted as an affordable option for beginners, as this natural fibre is visually similar to linen. Polyester blends should be avoided for serious reenactment.