Gambeson & tunic
- Available
-
Delivery time: 1 - 2 working days* (DE - int. shipments may differ)
The gambeson is one of the oldest and most versatile pieces of armour from the Middle Ages. Just as effective as a padded layer of protection worn beneath chainmail or plate armour as it is as a standalone piece of protective clothing for fighters on a tighter budget – this textile armour was indispensable on the battlefields of Europe for centuries. In our category, you’ll find over 200 gambesons and armour tunics for re-enactment, LARP and historical performances, ranging from simple padded jackets to intricately crafted linen gambesons with leather details.
What is a gambeson? History and function of the gambeson
The terms gambeson, armour tunic and aketon are often used interchangeably today, but refer to slightly different variations of the same garment. The gambeson is the longer, shirt-like padded garment that completely covers the upper body and can reach down to the thighs. The armour tunic is a shorter, fitted cut offering greater freedom of movement. In the strictest sense, the aketon refers to the simple, multi-layered linen variant without quilted seams, which is attested particularly early on.
The primary function of all three forms was identical: to cushion blows and cuts, protect the skin from the rings of the chainmail, and provide thermal insulation in the field. Fighters who could not afford steel armour also wore the gambeson as a standalone piece of armour. However, as a padded layer beneath steel armour, it was indispensable for all warriors, regardless of rank.
Historically, the gambeson can be traced back to Western European sources from the 13th century onwards. Contrary to an occasional misconception, it is a Western European development – the term is thought to derive from the Old French ‘wambais’ and has no Russian origin. Although Russian variants of padded protective clothing existed in parallel, they represent a separate development.
From the Early Middle Ages to the Renaissance: The Development of the Gambeson
Early Middle Ages: Multi-layered padded garments
Early padded garments consisted of several layers of linen or wool, which were laid on top of one another and roughly sewn together. The cushioning effect was achieved solely through the thickness of the material. Whether Vikings wore such padded garments is difficult to prove through archaeological finds – early medieval padded clothing did exist, but the classic quilted gambeson is a development of the High Middle Ages.
High Middle Ages: Quilted variants with padding
With the spread of chainmail, underarmour was systematised. Gambesons were given quilted seams and padding made of raw wool or fabric scraps, which significantly improved the cushioning effect. This combination of gambeson and chainmail was standard for knights from the 11th to the 13th century.
Late Middle Ages: Rüstwams and the transition to the civilian wams
In the Late Middle Ages, the long gambeson evolved into the fitted armour doublet: more tightly cut, better adapted to the body and increasingly worn as a civilian garment. At the same time, the brigandine emerged, in which small steel plates were sewn between layers of fabric – the gambeson transformed from undergarment armour into a lightweight armour in its own right.
Renaissance: Replaced by new weaponry
Arkebuses and hook guns could penetrate even well-padded armour. The heavily armoured knight lost his tactical advantage, and with him the gambeson disappeared from the battlefield as standard equipment. However, as training attire and for civilian use, the principle lived on in the tunic and other padded garments.
What do you wear under chainmail? Building the gambeson system correctly
Anyone wearing chainmail without underarmour quickly realises the problem: the rings chafe against the skin, the cold of the metal penetrates, and blows are barely cushioned. The gambeson solves all three problems at once. The classic armour construction of the Middle Ages followed a clear layering system:
- A linen or cotton undershirt as the first layer
- Gambeson or armour tunic as the padding layer
- Chainmail over the gambeson
- Plate armour (breastplate, armour, leg guards) as the outer layer
- Padded hood (collar hood) under the helmet
- Padded collar to protect the neck area under the neck guard
- Tight-fitting sports shirt or linen shirt as a base
- Gambeson or armour tunic to cushion impacts from foam weapons
- Optional chainmail sections for visual effect
- Padded collar and padded hood are useful for helmet comfort
- Freedom of movement is a priority: opt for a shorter gambeson
Suitable additions to the gambeson include helmets with padded hoods, neck guards and collars, as well as arm and leg guards for a complete armour set.
Materials and workmanship: what goes into a gambeson?
The choice of materials for the gambeson has changed significantly from the historical model to modern practice – without abandoning the basic principle: multiple layers that work together to cushion and protect.
| Material | Suitability | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Multi-layered linen (historical) | Historical | Authentic reproductions, Early and High Middle Ages |
| 55% linen / 45% viscose (outer fabric) | Historical | Outer fabric of our Donnergrund, Rabenfurth and Greifenfels models |
| 100% cotton (outer fabric) | LARP | Sturdy everyday gambeson variants, easy to wash |
| 100% polyester (padding) | LARP | Modern filling: good cushioning, lightweight, machine washable |
| 100% cotton (lining) | Historical | Inner lining for comfort against the skin |
| Leather (details) | Historical | Buckles, straps, buttons – fastenings and appearance |
The key difference between a simply quilted gambeson and a multi-layered padded combat model lies in the degree of padding: whilst lighter versions are primarily for visual effect, heavily padded models offer genuine impact protection for stage combat. Fabric buttons, as seen on the Greifenfels model, are historically accurate and significantly increase the complexity of the craftsmanship.
Gambeson or armour tunic – which type suits your needs?
Long gambeson
Covers the upper body and thighs completely. Ideal for High Medieval re-enactments of the 11th–13th centuries and as underarmour beneath chainmail. Models such as Donnergrund and Rabenfurth feature buckles and straps for individual adjustment.
Short gambeson
Fitted cut, ending at hip height. Greater freedom of movement, lighter overall weight. Particularly suitable for late medieval re-enactments and LARP use. The Wolfenwacht gambeson with leather lacing is an example of this variant.
Padded hood & padded collar
The padded neck guard (Eisenbrück) sits beneath the helmet and prevents chafing and the transmission of blows. Matching padded collars (Donnergrund, Rabenfurth) protect the neck area beneath the neck guard and are designed to fit the respective gambeson models perfectly.
Price ranges and selection guide: Which gambeson for which budget?
Individual padding elements such as the padded Eisenbrück hood (from €16.72) or padded collars (from €25) are ideal for those new to padded armour. For beginners who initially only wish to protect specific parts of the body or supplement their existing gambeson.
Complete gambesons such as Donnergrund and Rabenfurth (€83–105) made from a linen blend with a cotton lining and polyester padding. Featuring buckles, straps or leather lacing for a custom fit. Well suited for re-enactment beginners and LARP players alike.
Greifenfels models with historically accurate fabric buttons and higher-quality workmanship (up to €134). For re-enactors who value meticulous attention to detail. Also suitable as underarmour beneath full plate armour.
Gambeson care and size guide: Practical tips
Due to their padding, gambesons generally fit slightly looser than normal outerwear. Before purchasing, be sure to check the product-specific size chart for chest circumference and height. Models such as the Donnergrund feature buckles and straps for subsequent adjustment to the body – handy if you wish to fine-tune the fit after your first fitting. The Greifenfels fastens with fabric buttons and is also easy to adjust. The Wolfenwacht gambeson uses leather lacing (laces) for flexible adjustment.
Most gambesons made from a linen blend (55% linen, 45% viscose) are machine washable. Select a gentle cycle at a maximum of 30°C and avoid tumble drying – linen can shrink when exposed to heat. Leather details such as buckles, straps and buttons should be checked for stability before washing. For models with leather trimmings, hand washing or at least a laundry bag is recommended.
Hang your gambeson up or lay it flat – if crumpled up, the padding will lose its shape over time. If used regularly in combat, it is worth briefly checking the seams and padding after each event. Seams can become worn through repeated strain, particularly on the shoulders and sleeves. Timely repairs will significantly extend its lifespan.
Whether you’re looking for your first gambeson for a medieval market or putting together historically accurate undergarments for a stage combat performance – in our category you’ll find over 200 models in various styles, colours and price ranges. Browse through the selection and build up your armour layer by layer.
Frequently asked questions
A gambeson is a padded protective garment from the Middle Ages consisting of several layers of fabric. It was worn as underarmour beneath chainmail or plate armour to cushion blows and protect the skin from the chain rings. Less well-equipped fighters also wore it as a standalone piece of armour. Today, the gambeson is a popular garment for re-enactment, LARP and historical performances.
All three terms refer to padded protective clothing from the Middle Ages, but differ in cut: the gambeson is the longer, shirt-like model offering maximum body coverage. The armour tunic is shorter and more fitted, offers greater freedom of movement and originates primarily from the late Middle Ages. The aketon originally referred to the simple, multi-layered linen variant without quilted seams.
Early medieval padded garments are generally attested, but the classic quilted gambeson is a development of the High Middle Ages from the 11th to the 12th century. Vikings of the Viking Age (c. 8th–11th centuries) wore padded protection in a simpler form – multi-layered woollen or linen garments – but the characteristic quilted gambeson with padding is known to us primarily from later centuries.
Historically, the correct way to wear chainmail is to first put on a linen shirt as the first layer against the skin, followed by a gambeson as a padding layer. This combination protects the skin from the chain links, cushions blows and insulates against the cold. For the neck area, a padded collar complements the neck guard, and a padded hood (bundhaube) is worn under the helmet.
The price depends on size, cut and workmanship. Individual padding elements such as hoods start at around €17. Complete gambesons made from a linen blend with leather details are available from around €83. More elaborate models with historically accurate fabric buttons and a higher standard of workmanship cost up to around €134. For beginners, we recommend the mid-range options with buckles and straps for adjustment.