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Medieval clothing for men - Men's garb: men’s attire

Medieval clothing for men encompasses far more than just shirts and trousers: from the simple wool tunic of the common man to the padded gambeson

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Guide

What does medieval men’s clothing consist of?

Was gehört zur Mittelalter Gewandung für Herren?

Historical men’s attire was constructed in layers. Directly against the skin, one wore a straight-cut linen shirt and the so-called bruche – loose-fitting, short undergarments fastened with a bruche cord. Over this came the outer garment: a knee-length or longer wool tunic, known as a cotte, held in place by a belt. The outfit was complemented by leggings (tight-fitting stockings), which were later fastened to the doublet, as well as simple leather footwear.

The essential components of a complete men’s outfit include:

  • Undergarments: linen shirt, breeches
  • Outerwear: tunic, cotte, doublet or surcoat
  • Legwear: leggings, medieval trousers and leggings, calf wraps
  • Protective clothing: gambeson, armour-lined doublet, padded hood
  • Accessories: cape and cloak, belt pouch, headgear

The difference between simple everyday clothing and the representative attire of the upper classes was evident above all in the fabric, colour and decoration. Whilst the common man wore undyed wool or linen, the nobility and wealthy burghers dressed in colourful, elaborately crafted garments – sometimes made from imported silk.

Price ranges and entry-level options: Which outfit suits you?

Entry level · from €16.72

Padded hoods (Eisenbrück series) and padded collars from around €16–25 are the most affordable entry-level options. Ideal as a first addition to existing armour pieces or as a single component for beginners. Available in natural, brown and black.

Mid-range · approx. €83

The gambesons from the Donnergrund and Rabenfurth ranges, as well as the Wolfenwacht armour tunic, cost around €83. They are made from a linen blend fabric with padding and offer a good balance of protection, comfort and historical appearance. Available from XS to XXL.

Detailed finish · €100

The Greifenfels range offers gambesons with fabric buttons and more elaborate workmanship. For re-enactors who value historical detail and are looking for durable, versatile protective clothing. Also available in XS–XXL.

Gambesons, armour vests & military protective clothing

Gambeson, Rüstwams & militärische Schutzkleidung

The gambeson is the centrepiece of medieval protective clothing for men. As a padded jacket made from a linen-blend fabric with polyester filling, it absorbs blows and serves as a base layer for chainmail, neck guards or plate armour. Our current range features four lines to meet different requirements:

  • Donnergrund: Classic gambeson with buckles and straps, linen blend, in natural and black
  • Rabenfurth: Gambeson with leather lacing, detailed design, brown and black
  • Greifenfels: Highest level of detail with fabric buttons, linen blend fabric, three colours
  • Wolfenwacht: Armour gambeson with leather lacing – slightly simpler in cut, suitable for both civilian and military reenactments

The difference between a gambeson and a tunic lies in the context in which they are worn: the gambeson is primarily designed as a padding layer beneath armour and features thicker padding. The tunic is also suitable as a standalone outer garment without further armour – it looks attractive but offers less impact protection. Both types are complemented by padded hoods (Eisenbrück range, from €16.72) and padded collars (Donnergrund/Rabenfurth range, from €25.13) to form a complete gambeson system. The padded hood protects the head beneath the helmet, whilst the padded collar bridges the gap between the gambeson collar and the neck guard.

For which occasion – re-enactment, medieval market or LARP?

Re-enactment & historical re-enactment
  • Historical accuracy is important – research into period, region and century is necessary
  • Materials should be close to the historical original (linen, wool)
  • Suitable lines: Donnergrund, Rabenfurth, Greifenfels
  • Tip: Start with the basic kit, then gradually add to it using sub-categories
Medieval market & LARP
  • Combinations according to taste are permitted – bright colours are expressly welcome
  • LARP: Focus on functionality and durability; fantasy elements accepted
  • Suitable ranges: Wolfenwacht Rüstwams, padded hood as a starter
  • Sizes available from XS to XXL make it easy to get started

If you’re putting together a costume for the first time, you should start with a gambeson: it’s multifunctional, can be worn under armour, but also looks great as a standalone top. For a complete market outfit, complement it with medieval trousers, a medieval shirt as an undershirt, and matching medieval shoes.

Materials and fabrics: What was historically accurate – what makes sense today?

Material Historical context Use today
Wool Historically documented Coats, tunics, simple outerwear
Linen Historically documented Shirts, undershirts, gambeson outer fabric
Linen blend (55% linen / 45% viscose) Modern compromise Gambesons from the Donnergrund, Rabenfurth and Greifenfels ranges
Cotton Rarely seen in the European Middle Ages Lining in gambesons, simple shirts and trousers
Silk Historically, only the nobility Formal attire, rarely found in the range
Polyester (upholstery) Functional compromise Gambeson padding for optimal shock absorption

Linen and cotton are the most common materials used today for historically inspired men’s garments. Linen impresses with its breathability, durability and a look that comes much closer to the medieval original than synthetic fabrics. The linen blend fabric used in the gambesons combines the comfortable wear of linen with the shape retention and ease of care of the viscose content. The 100% polyester padding is a functional compromise that is not historically documented, but significantly improves the protective effect of the gambeson.

Clothing by period: Early, High and Late Middle Ages

6th–10th centuries

Early Middle Ages & Viking

Simple woollen or linen tunics, loose-fitting trousers (sometimes fastened with leg wraps/calf wraps), brooches as fastenings. Leather shoes, usually made as reversible shoes. Representative of Germanic, Frankish and Nordic cultural circles. Related subcategories: Viking men’s clothing and Viking calf wraps.

11th–13th centuries

High Middle Ages

Cotte as the main outer garment, surcoat as a sleeveless overgarment, leggings, hood as headwear. First more varied cuts, belts required to secure the layers. Armour garments such as gambesons and chainmail become widespread. Related subcategory: High Middle Ages clothing for men (subcategory).

14th–15th centuries

Late Middle Ages

Wams with set-in sleeves and leggings, houppelands as loose-fitting outer garments, chaperons as headgear. More figure-hugging cuts, buttons used as fastenings for the first time. Characteristic beaked shoes in the 14th/15th centuries. Related subcategory: Men’s Late Medieval Clothing (subcategory) and Wams & Medieval Wams.

Good to know: Sizes, care and mix-and-match options

The gambesons and armour-wams in this category are available in sizes XS to XXL – individual items (e.g. Donnergrund, Greifenfels) are also listed in L/XL as a combined item. Those requiring plus sizes will find specifically marked items in the range.

Care of linen and cotton: Wash linen garments at 30–40 °C on a gentle cycle and dry them flat or hung up – do not tumble dry, as linen tends to shrink. Cotton items are more hard-wearing, but the same rule applies here: wash gently to preserve colour vibrancy. Gambesons with polyester padding should only be washed at low temperatures to avoid damaging the filling.

Combinability: Items from different ranges (Donnergrund, Rabenfurth, Greifenfels) can be combined without any problems – for example, a Donnergrund gambeson with the Rabenfurth padded collar. Combining them with items from other subcategories (shirts, trousers, capes) usually works well too, as the colour palette is deliberately coordinated (natural, brown, black).

Do you have questions about the right size or fit? The Vehi Mercatus team is available Mon–Fri 8 am–12 pm and 1 pm–3 pm on +49 9921 7099288. As a Trusted Shops-certified specialist retailer with over 20 years’ experience in the scene, we’re happy to help you put together the right costume.

Whether you’re putting together a costume for the first time or looking to add specific pieces to your re-enactment outfit – browse through the subcategories such as gambesons & armour vests, tunics & surcoats, or medieval capes & cloaks for men, and put your outfit together step by step.

Frequently asked questions

A solid basic outfit consists of a medieval shirt as an undergarment, matching trousers or leggings, a belt, and a gambeson or tunic as outerwear. Suitable medieval shoes are also required. Those wishing to equip themselves for stage combat or re-enactment should add a padded coif and a gambeson as a protective layer beneath the armour.

A gambeson is a heavily padded protective jacket worn primarily as a cushioning layer beneath chainmail or plate armour. A gambeson is cut in a similar way, but is less heavily padded and also looks good as a standalone outer garment. For use in stage combat or under a hauberk, the gambeson is the better choice; the gambeson is well suited for markets and re-enactments without full armour.

Most gambesons and armour vests in this category are available in sizes XS to XXL. Individual ranges, such as the Donnergrund gambeson, are also offered in combined list sizes (L/XL). Anyone with specific fit enquiries can contact the Vehi Mercatus team by telephone.

Historically, wool and linen were the most important materials for men’s clothing in the Middle Ages. Cotton was hardly used in medieval Europe. Today, linen-blend fabrics (55% linen / 45% viscose) and pure cotton are predominantly used for garments – they closely resemble the historical originals in appearance and are easier to care for. The padding in gambesons is made of polyester, which is not a historical material, but significantly improves the protective function.

Yes, medieval men’s clothing is a popular choice for themed weddings, birthday parties or events with a historical atmosphere. Wamses, elegant tunics and surcoats, combined with a matching cloak, are particularly suitable for festive occasions. Those seeking a complete, harmonious look will find coordinated pieces in the various subcategories.

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