Accessories for medieval knives and cutlery
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A medieval knife is only as good as the accessories that go with it – from the right leather sheath and the correct whetstone to the belt hanger that keeps the knife within easy reach on your belt. Here you’ll find accessories for medieval knives and historical cutlery that are equally at home in the marketplace and in the re-enactment camp.
What historically belonged to the knife? Sheaths, carrying methods and care at a glance
In the Middle Ages, the knife was almost always worn openly on the belt – the sheath was not an optional accessory, but standard equipment for every free man and woman. Sheaths were made from tanned leather, simply sewn or riveted, and protected the blade from moisture and mechanical damage. Horizontal and vertical carrying methods are historically documented – both can be found in illustrated manuscripts and grave finds from various eras and regions.
The practice of maintaining the blade with oil was well known, although the materials available were different from those used today. Animal fats were used, as were simple vegetable oils. For modern carbon steel blade blanks – as are often found in historically inspired knives – Ballistol has proven itself to be a practical all-purpose oil: it protects both steel and leather equally. The sheath itself should be treated regularly with leather grease to ensure the material remains supple and does not become brittle.
Dangler and carrying systems: attaching the knife correctly to the belt
A dangler increases the distance between the belt and the sheath – the knife hangs lower and swings with your movements as you walk, which is both historically authentic and practical. This carrying method is well documented in medieval depictions and makes access much easier when seated, as the sheath does not rest against the thigh. The Casström No.3 Dangler is a tried-and-tested system with a replaceable loop in various colours – cognac, brown and black – so you can match the colour to your sheath and belt.
Dangler systems are not only suitable for bushcraft use, but are equally well-suited for medieval and Viking reenactment. If you’re aiming for a cohesive overall look, choose a loop colour that matches your sheath – dark brown suits most historically inspired looks from the early to the late Middle Ages. For Viking re-enactments, Viking Saxe knives combined with a Dangler system are particularly recommended.
Leather sheaths for medieval knives: fit, cut and carrying options
- Classic hanging position on the belt
- Most commonly documented historically
- Stable fit, minimal swinging
- Compatible with the Dangler system
- Suitable for long blades such as the Scramasax (25 cm)
- Wider fit, e.g. on the back or across the front
- Faster access in certain positions
- Less swinging effect when walking
- Historically documented in Scandinavian finds
- Practical for short and medium-sized blades
The sheath must match the blade length – for early medieval knives and scramasax blades with a blade length of 25 cm, there are custom-made solutions available. Dark brown leather has an aged appearance and blends harmoniously into historical looks, from the early to the late Middle Ages. When it comes to fit: a sheath that is too loose offers no secure hold and can damage the blade; sheaths that are too tight jam and make drawing the blade difficult.
Sharpening and maintaining blades: whetstones, sharpening steels and oil
| Care products / Tools | Suitability | Usage |
|---|---|---|
| Ballistol Universal Oil (400 ml) | Historical | Steel and leather care by moisture |
| Ceramic sharpening rod | Historical | Fine sharpening of the cutting edge, minimal material removal |
| Mud-Stone whetstone (~6000 grit) | LARP | Final polish following initial grinding with a coarse grit |
| Leather grease | Historical | Sheath care, keeping leather supple |
Carbon steel blades are sensitive to moisture and require regular care. After the blade gets wet, you should dry it and oil it. Ceramic sharpening rods are suitable for fine touch-ups of the cutting edge in between, without removing too much material. The Vietnamese mud-stone whetstone with a grit of approx. 6000 is intended for the final polish – rough blanks are first worked on with a lower grit. The sheath itself should be treated with leather grease at regular intervals.
What did knives look like in the Middle Ages – and what were they called?
Medieval knives usually had a single-edged blade with a straight or slightly sloping spine – no serrated edge, no hollows. Blade shapes were function-oriented and varied by region, but remained similar in their basic principles over the centuries. Handles were made of wood, horn or bone, the blades of wrought iron without the complex heat-treatment processes that only became standard in later knife-making.
The most common terms for medieval knives: ‘knife’ as a generic term, ‘sax’ or ‘scramasax’ for broad single-edged cutting knives of the Early Middle Ages, and ‘baudrier knives’ and ‘bollock knives’ in the Late Middle Ages. The sax was not a weapon in the strict sense – it was an everyday cutting tool and, depending on the situation, also served as a weapon. Those interested in the historical models will find suitable replicas in the categories ‘High Medieval Knives’ and ‘Late Medieval Knives’.
Incidentally, quill pens and styluses were used as writing implements in the Middle Ages – and the so-called penknife was a small knife used specifically for cutting and sharpening quill pens. Wax tablets were also inscribed with a metal stylus and smoothed again with the flat back of the stylus.
Blade blanks: If you want to finish your knife yourself
Casström offers high-quality blade blanks in various steels, suitable for crafting historically inspired knives yourself. Sleipner steel is characterised by high toughness and good edge retention, making it suitable for intensive use in the field. 14C28N steel is a rust-resistant alloy with good sharpenability – a compromise for those who prefer less maintenance. Blank blades are supplied without a handle – you attach a handle of your choice made from wood, horn or deer antler yourself.
The flat grind, as featured on the No. 10 Swedish Forest in the Casström range, offers low resistance when cutting but is more sensitive to lateral stress. Anyone interested in building their own knives will find suitable blanks in the Knife Blades and Blanks category. The handle material – horn, wood, bone – is available separately and can be combined individually.
The right accessories for your purpose
Leather sheaths with a historical look (vertical or horizontal) to match the blade length, complemented by a dangler system for an authentic carrying experience. Add a small bottle of maintenance oil – and you have a harmonious overall look on your belt. For the cutlery set in the military camp, we also recommend matching cutlery accessories such as forks and awls.
A sturdy sheath with a secure hold, a ceramic sharpening rod for on the go and a whetstone for base camp. Carbon steel blades need oiling after every time they get wet – Ballistol universal oil also takes care of the leather maintenance of the sheath, saving the need for a second container.
Blade blank (Sleipner or 14C28N) of your choice, plus handle material made from horn, wood or deer antler, and leather cut to size by yourself for sheath construction. The result is a fully customised knife that is historically accurate and bears the mark of your own handiwork.
Whether it’s a leather sheath for the Sax, a belt hanger for everyday wear at the market, or a whetstone for blade maintenance – choose the accessories that suit your knife and your intended use. Browse through our range and feel free to ask us for advice if you have any questions.
Frequently asked questions
Medieval knives usually had a single-edged blade with a straight or slightly sloping spine. No serrated edges, no hollows – the shape was functional and varied by region, but remained broadly similar over the centuries. Handles were made of wood, horn or bone, and blades of wrought iron without complex heat treatment.
The general term was simply ‘knife’. There were also specific names: ‘Sax’ or ‘Scramasax’ for broad, single-edged cutting knives of the Early Middle Ages, and ‘Baudrier knives’ and ‘Bollock knives’ in the Late Middle Ages. The Sax was not a sword – it was an everyday cutting tool and, depending on the situation, also served as a weapon.
In the Middle Ages, people wrote mainly with quills (goose feathers, sharpened and slit) and styluses on wax tablets. A small knife – the so-called penknife – was used specifically to sharpen and maintain the quill. Wax tablets were inscribed with a metal stylus and smoothed again with the flat back of the same.
The blade length is the most important factor: there are sheaths of the correct size for Scramasax blades with a blade length of 25 cm. You can also choose between vertical and horizontal carrying styles – vertical is historically the most common, whilst horizontal allows for quicker access. Ensure a precise fit: a sheath that is too loose will not hold the blade securely, whilst leather that is too tight will jam when drawing the blade.
Carbon steel blades are sensitive to moisture and should be dried and treated with oil after getting wet. Ballistol Universal Oil is ideal, as it protects both steel and leather. For sharpening, we recommend a ceramic sharpening rod for fine touch-ups in everyday use and a whetstone with a fine grit (approx. 6000) for the final polish.