Leather colour & leather grease
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Leather is a natural material that requires care – especially when it is subjected to daily wear and tear at markets, in storage or during LARP events. With the right leather dye, a good leather grease or a beeswax balm, you can keep your medieval shoes, belts, bags and armour pieces supple, weather-resistant and visually appealing for the long term.
Leather dye, leather grease & balm: what do these terms mean?
Anyone who looks after leather will quickly come across three different product groups – and not every one is suitable for every purpose:
- Leather dye is used exclusively for colouring or refreshing the leather surface. It changes the appearance but does not condition the material itself. Leather dye is used when a belt has faded or a boot needs a new colour.
- Leather grease is a purely nourishing product: it replenishes the oils in dried-out leather, makes it supple and offers protection against moisture. It barely alters the colour, but vegetable-tanned natural leather usually darkens slightly.
- Leather balm combines both functions. Good balms contain beeswax – a component that was historically used as far back as the Middle Ages and has a water-repellent effect without weighing down the leather’s structure.
As a rule of thumb: if the leather is dry or brittle, use leather grease or balm. If you want to refresh or change the colour, leather dye is the right choice. For medieval equipment that is regularly exposed to rain, dust and mechanical stress, a balm containing beeswax is recommended as an all-round product for regular care.
Leather grease & leather balm: Which is better for your medieval accessories?
- Highly moisturising effect
- Ideal for heavily used, vegetable-tanned smooth leather
- Suitable for shoes, belts, saddles and sturdy leather items
- Makes leather supple and water-repellent
- Visibly darkens natural leather
- Not suitable for suede or chrome-tanned leather
- Vaseline is not a substitute: it seals the pores, provides no nutrients and accelerates the ageing of the leather in the long term
- Combines care and protection in one product
- Beeswax forms a protective surface layer
- Water-repellent, yet breathable
- Gentler on more delicate types of leather
- Darkens less than pure leather grease
- Historically authentic ingredient – beeswax was a common care product in the Middle Ages
- Recommendation for medieval equipment: Bense & Eicke Beeswax Leather Balm – nourishing, protective, versatile
Dyeing leather yourself: How it works
In principle, leather can be dyed at home – if you proceed carefully, you will achieve lasting, good results. Two types of leather dye are widely available on the market:
- Acrylic-based leather dyes are water-based, provide good coverage and are easy to use. They are particularly suitable for large areas and are also ideal for beginners. Adhesion is good, provided the surface is properly prepared.
- Alcohol-based leather dyes penetrate deeper into the leather’s structure, produce a more intense colour effect and often last longer on heavily used items. They are also suitable for suede.
The process for dyeing leather yourself always follows the same basic principle:
- Cleaning: Remove dirt, dust and care product residues with a damp cloth or a leather cleaner.
- Degreasing: Remove old layers of grease or wax using a suitable degreaser or isopropyl alcohol – this is the only way to ensure the dye adheres properly.
- Apply dye: Apply in thin layers using a sponge or soft brush. Allow each layer to dry completely before applying the next.
- Sealing: A final sealant protects the paint from abrasion and significantly extends its durability.
Preparation is key to the result: skipping this step risks the dye flaking or adhering unevenly. An example of professionally dyed leather is the range of leather shoes from Vehi Mercatus, which are hand-dyed in-house in Rinchnach – from natural brown to an antique look. This process demonstrates just how much of a difference careful hand-dyeing makes compared to purely industrial dyeing.
Natural leather care products: What has stood the test of time?
Anyone involved in re-enactment or simply wishing to avoid chemical-synthetic products will turn to care products that have stood the test of time for centuries:
- Beef tallow is considered the oldest known leather care product. It makes leather supple, offers good protection against moisture and is entirely of natural origin. It is still in use at historical markets and in re-enactment.
- Beeswax forms a protective layer on the leather’s surface, is water-repellent and prevents it from drying out. Beeswax was already used for leather care in the Middle Ages – historically documented and effective to this day.
- Linseed oil is particularly suitable for very dry, old leather. It penetrates deep into the material and nourishes it from within. However, it takes a long time to dry and should not be applied too generously.
- Neatsfoot oil is another traditional product derived from cattle bones. It provides intensive care for vegetable-tanned leather, but causes it to darken visibly – which is often desired for historical pieces.
For LARP shoes and Viking shoes made from vegetable-tanned leather, these natural products are often a better choice than synthetic care products, as they preserve the leather’s structure in the long term without oversaturating it.
Which care product for which leather? An overview
| Leather type / Product | Recommended product | Frequency of care |
|---|---|---|
| Smooth leather, vegetable-tanned (shoes, belts) | Leather grease / balm | After every market, at least every 4–6 weeks |
| Smooth leather, chrome-tanned (modern leather) | Leather balm | Every 6–8 weeks or in dry conditions |
| Suede / Velour leather | Special spray | No grease – use special products only |
| Medieval bags & pouches | Beeswax balm | 2–3 times per season |
| Armor parts, bracers | Leather grease / balm | Before and after the season |
| Very old, dried-out leather | Linseed oil / Neatsfoot oil | Intensive treatment once, followed by balm |
Important: More isn’t always better. Too much grease makes leather permanently soft and unstable – particularly with belts and shoe soles, which need support. Once a month for regularly used items is usually quite sufficient.
Restoring old leather to its former glory: step by step
Before you start caring for the leather, it must be clean. Remove dirt, dust and mould residues with a slightly damp cloth. Old care product residues – recognisable by a waxy or sticky film – can be removed with a leather cleaner or diluted isopropyl alcohol. This step is crucial: if you apply grease directly to dirty leather, you’ll be treating the layer of dirt rather than the leather itself.
You can recognise dried-out leather by a dull, stiff surface or by small cracks that are not yet deep. Leather grease or a high-quality leather balm containing beeswax will help here. Apply the product thinly with a soft cloth or your fingers and work it into the leather using circular movements. Then leave it to soak in for at least 30 minutes before polishing or applying a second coat.
Small, superficial cracks can often still be treated with a good leather balm: the grease penetrates the crack structure and restores the leather’s elasticity. Deeper cracks that reach down to the leather fibres cannot be closed by care alone – in this case, a leather adhesive or a specialised repair paste can help. Several care treatments spread over a few days are more effective for severely dried-out leather than a single intensive treatment.
Leather that has torn over a large area, breaks when bent, or has completely hardened can no longer be restored through care. Severe mould infestation that has penetrated deep into the material also usually spells the end for the item. As a rule of thumb: if the leather tears under light pressure instead of bending, the fibre structure is destroyed. Well-maintained leather, on the other hand – regularly cleaned and greased – lasts for decades and develops a characteristic patina over time.
Whether you want to freshen up your medieval shoes after a long market day, re-dye a belt or restore suppleness to old leather – with the right product, it’s no rocket science. Have a look around our range and feel free to give us a call if you have any questions.
Frequently asked questions
Alcohol-based leather dyes penetrate deeper into the material and last longer on heavily worn leather. Acrylic-based dyes provide good coverage and are easier to apply, but only adhere reliably if the surface has been thoroughly cleaned and degreased beforehand. In both cases, a final sealant is crucial for durability.
Leather grease is particularly suitable for heavily used, vegetable-tanned smooth leather such as shoes, belts and saddles. It provides intensive re-greasing and good protection against moisture, but causes the leather to darken noticeably. Leather balm with beeswax combines care and protection in one product; it is gentler and darkens the leather less – ideal for medieval equipment that requires regular care.
This is not recommended. Vaseline seals the pores of the leather, provides no real nutrients and can damage the leather’s structure in the long term. For vegetable-tanned medieval leather, you should opt for specialised leather grease, beeswax balm or traditional remedies such as beef tallow.
Historically, beef tallow, beeswax, linseed oil and neatsfoot oil have proven their worth. Beef tallow and beeswax were already in use in the Middle Ages and remain suitable for vegetable-tanned leather to this day. Linseed oil and neatsfoot oil are particularly suitable for very old, dried-out leather, as they penetrate deep into the material.
First, clean the leather and remove any old care product residues. Then work in leather grease or a beeswax balm in thin layers and allow it to soak in well. For severely dried-out leather, several care treatments over a few days are more effective than a single intensive treatment. However, leather that breaks when bent cannot be restored.