By following these instructions, you can make your own simple, medieval-style leather pouch – perfect as a belt pouch, for LARP, medieval fairs or bushcraft in the wilderness.
What you can expect from this article
- Key takeaways at a glance
- Introduction: Leather pouches in the Middle Ages – what were they used for, and why make your own?
- Materials and tools for your medieval leather pouch
- Step 1: Cutting out a circle of leather for the pouch
- Step 2: Mark and punch holes in the leather pouch
- Step 3: Thread the lacing through and add medieval details
- Variations, uses and customisations for your leather pouch
- FAQ on the medieval leather pouch
Reading time: approx. 7 mins.
Key takeaways at a glance
- You’ll only need a few materials: a piece of leather cut into a circle, a hole punch or awl, and a sturdy cord or leather strap.
- The basic shape is a circle with holes punched around the edge, through which a cord is threaded. A round pouch requires no stitching at all and is held together by a drawstring closure.
- This construction method is well documented archaeologically: numerous round and semi-circular drawstring pouches of exactly this design have been preserved from Haithabu, the important Viking-era trading centre near present-day Schleswig.
- The pouch is modelled on simple finds from the High and Late Middle Ages, without being a museum-style reconstruction.
Introduction: Leather pouches in the Middle Ages – what were they used for, and why make your own?
In the Middle Ages, a leather pouch was an indispensable everyday item. People used them to carry coins, flint, herbs or sewing kits, as clothing at that time generally did not have sewn-in pockets. Such a pouch would dangle visibly from a belt and, in the re-enactment scene, is also referred to as a tinder pouch or belt pouch depending on its intended use – for example, when it was used to carry a fire steel and tinder.
These step-by-step instructions are suitable for beginners, children, and LARP and re-enactment enthusiasts. We’ll be making a simple, laced round pouch. More elaborate versions with a pouch lid and a sewn flap are possible, but that’s a topic for a separate project. Genuine leather is water-repellent and durable, and best captures the medieval character. Historical pouches of this kind were usually made using a simple folding and lacing technique, rather than complex stitching – which is exactly what we’ll be recreating here.
Materials and tools for your medieval leather pouch
Here’s your shopping list. Everything can be sourced from a craft shop, a cobbler’s or an online leather retailer – offcuts from furniture or bag production are also ideal.
Materials:
- A piece of leather (cowhide, split leather or soft suede), approx. 2–3 mm thick, at least 30 × 30 cm
- 1–2 m of leather cord (3–4 mm wide) or a sturdy cotton cord
- Optional: snap hook, buckle or small metal ring for attaching to a belt
Tools:
- Pencil or silver pen for marking
- Compass or large saucepan lid/plate (approx. 24–28 cm in diameter) as a template
- Sharp scissors or craft knife
- Hole punch or awl (if necessary, a sturdy office hole punch will do)
- Ruler or tape measure
- A strong leather needle, if you want to sew anything on
Vegetable-tanned leather is used for authentic pouches – this tanning method was the only one available in the Middle Ages, as chemical chrome tanning was not developed until the 19th century. You can start by making a paper template for the pouch before you begin working with the leather. Beginners can also practise using faux leather or denim; however, denim and thick cotton are less water-repellent and look less authentic.
Step 1: Cut out a leather circle for the pouch
The entire shape is based on a single circle, which forms the bag when pulled together – a design with absolutely no seams.
Here’s how to do it: Place the saucepan lid or plate on top of your leather and trace around it with a pencil. A circle with a diameter of around 20 centimetres will make a practical, medium-sized bag. If you’d like a larger pouch, choose 24 to 28 cm; a 26-cm circle will produce a finished pouch with a diameter of around 12 to 14 cm when closed.
Place the leather on a firm surface and cut out the circle slowly and carefully using strong scissors or a sharp craft knife. The smooth side of the leather will face outwards, whilst the rough inner side (the flesh side) will face inwards – this helps the pouch to pick up less dirt.
Tip: You can leave two small, opposite flaps (‘ears’) at the edge to attach a strap or a metal ring to the belt pouch later – this very construction with semi-circular flaps is also known from the historical Haithabu finds.
Step 2: Mark and punch holes in the leather pouch
Evenly spaced holes along the edge are crucial to ensure the pouch can be pulled together securely.
| Element | Measurement |
|---|---|
| Distance of the holes from the edge (for drawstring) | approx. 1–1.5 cm |
| Distance of the holes from the edge (for decorative stitching) | 0.5 to 1 cm |
| Distance between the holes | every 4 to 5 centimetres |
| Number of holes (for a 26-cm circle) | approx. 24–28 (divisible by 4) |
If the leather is particularly thick, or if you want more stability, you can also position the holes 2 to 3 centimetres from the edge. Start by marking four reference points (top, bottom, left, right) and then mark the centre between each pair to ensure the holes are evenly spaced – having a number of holes divisible by 4 ensures that the lacing will open evenly later on.
You can punch the holes using a hole punch, an awl or, if necessary, a nail and hammer on a wooden base. The holes must not be too close to the edge – otherwise the leather will tear, especially if the material is soft.
Medieval tip: Two rows of holes allow for an alternative fastening – a second row about 1 cm above the first allows for a double drawstring, as is also found in historical artefacts.
Step 3: Thread the lacing and add medieval details
Now the leather disc is turned into a proper pouch. Thread the cord alternately through the holes – from the outside in, then from the inside out. Make sure the leather cord does not twist as you do this.
Let both ends emerge side by side at the corners you left standing earlier. When tightening, grasp both strands at the same time so that the folds close evenly. Secure the ends with sturdy knots – decorative knots or wooden beads threaded onto the cord give the pouch a more authentic look. Traditionally, this method requires no needle or thread at all. If you do wish to sew anything on, however, waxed linen thread is historically more appropriate than synthetic thread.
Belt pouch variation: Thread an additional, shorter strip of leather through two opposite holes and attach a metal ring or a sturdy leather loop to it for the belt. The edges of the leather can also be decorated for a more authentic look, for example with notched edges.
Care: Treat the pouch occasionally with leather grease; do not dry it on a radiator. If it does get wet, it should be left to dry slowly in the air so that the leather remains supple. For the round drawstring pouch, you should allow around 30 to 60 minutes in total.
Variations, uses and customisations for your leather pouch
The same basic shape can be used to create different pouches for various purposes:
- Small coin purse: 16–18 cm in diameter – handy when out and about or as a tinder pouch for outdoor use
- Medium all-purpose pouch: 22–24 cm – for herbs, flint or small natural finds
- Large market pouch: 30 cm and over – for LARP props, dice or a trip to the market
Design ideas: decorative stitching with waxed linen thread around the edge, stamped patterns or burnt-in marks as a personal coat of arms. Re-enactment groups across Europe regularly make similar bags based on archaeological models, often in workshops involving children – a wonderful opportunity to bring craft and history to life. For younger children, it is advisable to use thinner leather or, alternatively, felt.
Incidentally, the basic technique also works with a simple ribbon instead of leather cord, or with felt instead of leather – experimenting with different materials is part of the appeal of the project.
FAQ on medieval leather pouches
Which leather is best suited for a medieval pouch?
Cowhide or split leather 2–3 mm thick is ideal – softer rather than rock-hard, so that the pouch can be pulled together easily. For the most authentic results, choose vegetable-tanned leather, as evidenced by historical pouch finds from Haithabu.
Can I make the pouch without a hole punch?
Yes. An awl, a nail and hammer, or a pair of sharp scissors will also work – be sure to use a sturdy wooden base and mark out the holes evenly.
How do I attach my leather pouch securely to my belt?
Attach a leather loop or a metal ring to two opposite holes and thread the belt through. Alternatively, a small carabiner buckle works well.
How long will it take me to make a pouch?
For a simple round pouch with a drawstring, allow about 30 to 60 minutes, depending on your experience and the tools you use. For groups of children, a double lesson is recommended.
Is this leather pouch historically accurate?
The basic shape is based on simple pouches found from the High and Late Middle Ages, such as those from Haithabu. It is a practical, simplified reconstruction – not an exact copy of a specific museum find.
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